The big island (Hawaii) is by far the biggest island in the chain and, in many ways, the most diverse. Its biggest shortcoming is a lack of long, white sandy beaches, but there are nice beaches here as well (just not the plethora like Maui, for example).
Almost all flights go into the city and airport of Kona. Upon arrival, you will be amazed at how barren the landscape looks: almost nothing but lava flows. The West Side (Kona Coast) is mostly black lava and very dry, while the East Side (Hilo side) is a rain forest. All the resorts are on the Kona Coast.
The town of Kona has many condominiums and smaller hotels although there are some larger, older resorts on the south side. There are not many beaches in Kona but....REMEMBER!!- ALL the beaches in Hawaii are public; the resort beaches as well; they just make them harder to get to by restricting parking. So (in general) ALMOST EVERY hotel has a beach and it is open to the public. In Kona there is lots of shopping (and even a Costco, for example) and the most concentrated nightlife on the island.
The best resort in a majority of opinions ( and obviously the most expensive), is the Mauna Lani. It is about 30 minutes up the coast from Kona. They have luxuroius condominiums and bungalows (in addtn. to hotel rooms) here. THey sometimes have a great Sunday brunch but this is seasonal so check first. The lobby is beautiful; (if you go to the beach here be sure to go to the lobby) with ponds of tropical fish (sharks, etc.). THeir beach is more like a lagoon and has great snorkeling but no waves unless you go
to the beach on the far left, ½ mile away. Look
for the turtles which you can generally count on seeing here.
Kona Village is an all-inclusive resort that is very sequestered; small bungalows and lots of personal attention. The beach is somewhat steep and can be a little choppy.
The Mauna Kea is the oldest resort along the coast and,after having falling behind the times, they are doing a massive rebuilding that should restore this former grande dame. They do have the one of the best beaches on the island . You can still go there; just go to the gate and ask for a beach-parking pass (parking fills up with locals early on weekends and holidays). Also, if you want to splurge but don't have the money to stay here, the Mauna Kea’s Sunday brunch is great …….Do it and spend the afternoon on the beach trying to laze in the sun; maybe swim and work off the calories. Small kids can just play in the surf.
Also consider the Hapuna Prince; it is a cheaper sister to the Mauna Kea. It is located on the biggest white sand beach on this island, Hapuna State Park. There is ample parking right at Hapuna Beach and good snorkeling and boogie boarding. THere is also a nice shave ice stand here.
The Sheraton Waikoloa (now Outrigger) is also along the coast (and a good recommendation for someone on a budget); the Hilton Waikaloa (name changes frequently…) is almost like Disneyland, they have a tram that runs through each wing as well as an artificial moat with boats that also go between each wing. Right next door is a Ritz-Carlton that is top-tier. These properties are clustered together and the beaches are strung along each hotel property. THere is a nice upscale mall in this cluster and two nice golf courses as well.
You can drive around the island in a LONG (8 hr or so) day, but you wouldn't get out of the car. The sights are: going north from Kona, you drive through lava flows past all the resorts until you come to the town of Kawaihai. From there, you can continue along the coast to the end of the road ~ little towns of Hawi and Kapaau are at the end of this road, 20 miles from Kawahai. It is a very pretty drive along the road right next to the ocean. It is amazing to see the difference as you approach the windward and wet half of the island. You go from dry, desert-like terrain to rain forest in a span of about eight miles. Rainfall in these 8 miles go from about 15" per year to about 50". At the end of this road is the Pololu overlook. It is WELL worth the drive-(the views are similar to the cliffs along Kauai). At the end (lookout) there is also a nice short (3/4 mile hike) to the beach below. Another way to get there (Pololu Overlook) from Kawaihai is to go in to Waimea (Kamuela) and then take the high road to Hawi. This is a great drive and not to be missed (If possible, go one way and return the other). The road goes to about 6000 ft. in elevation. One passes through lush pastureland and there is a great overlook of the Kona coast as well as the volcanoes Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and in-between (if it’s clear). This is the old road (built before the coast road).
Good place to eat in Kawaihai is Cafe Pesto. It is behind and downstairs from the 7/11(or whatever it is called) at the corner. Also good is the Harbor Grill, right on the road…green and white…locals like it too…In Waiamea, there is a nice variety of good dining - Edelweiss, owned by a
former chef at Mauna Kea (a German); a favorite at lunch. It is
crowded. Also good is Merrimans ...much pricier and more upscale.
Snorkeling is good at the Mauna Lani; there are lots of sea turtles in the calm bay; go a little further out for more fish. At Mauna Kea Resort beach, the snorkeling is good on either side. At night, they have big lights that attract 6-8 ft manta rays. It is fun to go there for a glass of wine at night and watch the rays. Near the City of Refuge (south of Kona) is a wonderful snorkeling area called "Two Step" for the two steps off the lava into the ocean. There is no beach here, just great snorkeling.Take the road down from the main road to “City of Refuge”. At bottom as you face the sea, C of R is on left and there is a small road on its right that goes down to lava flow. There are some parking places right on beach (well mostly lava, no beach) as well as 3 or so picnic tables. Go straight out on lava where it extends as a tip outward. There is a step down (two-step) then directly into the ocean. There are usually tons of turtles here as well as many fish. Rent snorkel gear at the main road in one of the stands along highway before you head there. Not a bad idea to rent snorkel gear for a week (the ubiquitous Snorkel Bob or numerous other places) as soon as you arrive on the island.
There is also a small beach at Mauna Kea Resort that few people know about sometimes refered to as "the beach on the right." The snorkeling isn't great but it is small and very secluded. Some nude sunbathing goes on there. Ask the guard at the entrance for directions. This is also a good place to go when the parking is all full on the regular beach. (Like most weekends). They won’t let you in if there isn’t enough parking….so go early…
If you want to take a snorkeling tour, try (especially for children) the Fair Isle tour. It is pricey but it includes continental breakfast, lunch and snorkeling gear. They go to Kealakekua Bay; leaving about 9:00 and returning about 2:00. One frequently sees dolphins, flying fish and whales on the trip there…lots of great snorkeling as well as Snuba (air tube connected to a breather).Great people and service….Highly recommended!
Good eats near City of Refuge/South Kona on highway is Aloha Café…they also have a stage and put on productions and have concerts…
One of the favorite places and awe-inspiring sights in all the Hawaiian Islands is the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. It is about four hours from Kona. The trip is doable in a number of ways; just go a different way in each direction (so you see more). The least scenic (although everything is scenic) is the southern route; although the little town at the bottom tip of the island is very pretty, and there is the black sand beach at Sea Pines Resort, so really, whatever route you take is pretty and has great aspects to it. The saddle road that goes between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa (incidentally, both volcanoes are about 13,000 ft high.) is very scenic, although it is foggy many days and some rental car properties prohibit travel on this road...check first. You can drive to the top of Mauna Kea; when clear it is very pretty on top and you need four wheel drives to do it (again, no rentals allowed). The third route goes through Waimea (Kamuela) and is also very scenic. The many valleys along the coast north of Hilo are quite beautiful. The Botanical Gardens are an interesting stop as are Akaka Falls and Rainbow Falls. One should stop at one or the other of the falls. Hilo an old town with an old downtown area; much more "character" than Kona and a lot more rain 200 inches a year as opposed to 10 inches (estimates). THis drive is somewhat similar to the Road to Hana; not as scenic (certainly faster), but a taste od Old Hawai'i for sure.
Another Cafe Pesto in Hilo is a great place to eat. At the Volcano, one can stay at Volcano House, but it is somewhat dated. Also try a bed and breakfast such as Chateau Kilauea. The food is very good.~. One of the nice things about staying at Volcano House, tho, is being able to get up first thing in the morning and go for a run (or walk) right outside the door. Only the rooms in the new wing have a great volcano view (the main wing has smaller, old-style windows). The hiking/running trails in HVNP are GREAT. Try going from Volcano House to Kiluea Iki (old lava cone inside crater Halimaumau), then to the Desolation trail and back to Volcano House. Another great place is the Kilauea Caldera area. Lots of nene (flightless geese descended from a flock of Canadian Geese blown off course thousands of years ago) in the Desolation Trail area. The Thurston Lava Tube is also fun, and a good place for small kids. One can include it in an easy run or hike from Volcano House. ~ Favorite hike or run is from Volcano House down into the crater, across to Kiluaea Iki, up to Thurston Lava Tube and back along the rim to Volcano House. Even if you stay at a Bed and Breakfast, you can get to the Volcano House in 5 minutes. You will have to buy a Natl. Parks Pass no matter where you stay that is good for five days. The worst thing about the Volcano Area is a lack of good dining. There is one upper range place in Volcano Village that is pretty decent (you’ll see it in the Volcano Visitor’s Guide). Hilo is only 30 minutes away. One recommendation would be a B&B to stay, Volcano House for lunch and drive to Hilo for dinner at Café Pesto.
The latest lava flaws (as of 2006) are about 30 miles (45 minutes) from the Volcano House…. along the coast. They will tell you not to get too close, etc. People near a lava flow were overheard saying: “Hear those popping noises? Those are lava bubbles bursting. The tiny specks and pieces of hot lava are 1000 degrees and will burn deep into your skin!” Don’t find out if it is true! At any rate, you can get a lot closer than the “official” viewing areas…but usually it involves LONG hikes over bumpy terrain. Most times you won’t know til you drive to the bottom of Chain of Craters road… Sometimes it’s totally spectacular..sometimes it’s not; either way the drive is awesome and reminds you of the insignificance of man in relation to the raw power of nature…
Ask at the visitors’ center about the best viewing areas and times. Usually, nights are the best (you can see the lava flows fro far away). A good flashlight is needed. The B&B’s will usually loan you one.
THose who have been to South Point (southernmost tip of US) say it’s beautiful but remote That will add a lot of time to your trip as its another 20 miles off the main road (or so). Again, the Black Sand Beach at Sea Pines resort near the bottom of the island is wonderful to see…there’s a little place for lunch there as well. This is well worth a stop. It’s not well marked but you turn at the golf course down there. After you go through the little town at the southern tip, it is about 10 miles along the road traveling toward Volcano Nat. Park…there were many turtles laying eggs last visit (2006).
Golf is very expensive at the resorts. Personal picks -----…Mauna Kea is the tops (golf, not value) as it is the oldest and also very tough… Signature hole has been emulated by many other resorts in Hawaii…. Par 3 across a bit of ocean. Watch for windy days and cancel or don’t play ANYWHERE if it’s blowing hard…wind can be BAD when the strong trades are blowing. Hapuna course (Mauna Kea #2), is a challenging piece of work. Lots of elevated tees with carries over 100-200 yard areas of lava/scrub trash…a bit "tricked up", tho it’s a lot cheaper)…The big boys are approximately $145 (guest) to $210 (non-guest) a round. In many opinions, second best is Mauna Lani #1…green holes among black lava…very dramatic tho not as difficult as Mauna Kea. The par 3 signature hole similar to Mauna Kea’s is nicer and just as intimidating. Two courses here. There are also 2 courses at the Sheraton/Ritz/Hilton complex. Both are like Mauna Lani’s…not as "immaculate" but similar in that they are green fairways set among black lava…very dramatic but somewhat short in length…they can be a good value…The best golf value is the Waikoloa Village course located about 10 miles inland from the Sheraton/Ritz/Hilton resort area…Do an early morning tee time for 55 bucks (walking...with a coupon..check local trade mags)…It’s a good course, challenging, but no ocean….In Kona, there are 27 holes at the Kona Prince Hotel…something like that…The new 9 is very hilly and has lots of side-hill lies…remembered that Waimea has a links style course that looks interesting and fun…it rains a lot there so be prepared for cool (it’s 2000 ft. levation) and/or rainy…. The Sea Pines Course (near South Point) is also fun and inexpensive…somewhat challenging and a good value…..…the Volcano Course is interesting…somewhat challenging, but a bit pricey and "shaggy"…and it rains a lot there…There is also a Hilo Public Course and a little 9 hole course in Hamakua that hosts a tournament played with macadamia nuts every year!
If you are a biker, do a weekly bike rental. Can’t remember the name, but the rental shop is in a mini-mall on the right about ½ mile before the stop light on the main highway into downtown Kona. It wasn’t cheap ($150 a week) but what is in Hawaii? Bring your shoes, pedals, helmet and (possibly) saddle.Forget riding in Kona...much too much traffic. The ride to Pololu Valley is very nice, but short (Hawi to the overlook). It gets quite busy after about 11ish as the tourist traffic from the big hotels pick up. Another favorite ride is Hawi to the top of the overlook on the high road to Waimea (or conversely, Waimea to the high point). It’s quite an uphill pull, and also advisable ONLY as an early ride due to the lack of much of a shoulder; also; the traffic increases after 11ish.
The Ironman turnaround is in Hawi (Kona to Kawaihai to Hawi), and the road from Kawaihai to Hawi along the coast is quite nice. The trades usually blow in your face from Hawi out. It is always fun to ride in the light drizzle in Hawi to the heavy wind and into the hot sun along that coast. You see many whales right off the shoreline and the shoulder is nice and wide. Kona to Kawaihai is ridden by many locals, but way too hot and crowded with cars. Biking is also a HIGHLY recommended way to tour the Volcano Natl. Park area…….BUT it can be dicey as you are at 5000 feet and in a drizzle it can get quite cool. An early morning bike ride around the crater rim when the weather is nice and there is fresh snow on Mauna Loa is not to be missed, though realistically, this is about 15% of the time…the rest is drizzly… Still….give it a try if you rent a bike for a week or bring your own… )
Enjoy the Big Island, bruddah!
